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OnBase: Naval Station Rota
Gateway To The Mediterranean
By Sarah J. Schmidt
Spring 2008
The white mounds look like snowdrifts along the road leading to Naval Station Rota, but it’s actually cotton ready for harvest in this beautiful coastal region of Spain, where the temperature is always seasonable. There’s no snow here, just miles of vineyards and peaceful farmland, sweeping to gorgeous sandy beaches. Is it any wonder Rota is one of the Navy’s most popular assignments?
Unlike many U.S. bases where the landscape outside the front gate consists of payday lenders and tattoo parlors, the front gates of NS Rota open onto a lovely street lined with palm trees and whitewashed buildings that house cafes, boutiques and bakeries. There’s even a museum with exhibits detailing Rota’s colorful history.
The street meanders to the center of town, where locals stroll along a gorgeous brick promenade built just above the ocean. Steps lead to the wide expanse of beach that makes Rota famous. Located on the eastern shores of Spain, Rota is yet unspoiled by the commercialization and high-rise developments that mar the Costa del Sol on Spain’s Mediterranean shores. However, the tourist trade still accounts for the primary industry in this tiny pueblo blanco (white town). During the summer, tourists swell Rota’s population of 30,000 to 100,000.
Clear Skies And Smooth Sailing
Tourists aren’t the only ones who appreciate Rota’s sunny weather; pilots and sailors love it, too. Virtually all takeoffs and landings at NS Rota are under VFR conditions (visual flight rules), possible only when skies are clear. Rota’s flight line operates 24/7 in support of trans-Atlantic air transport and mobilization units that stop for refueling and cargo.
A $45 million ramp expansion and upgrade, completed last summer, now allows parking for up to 16 of the Air Force’s largest C-5 cargo jets. New underground fuel tanks provide safer and more convenient service, capable of filling a C-5 in an hour, compared to the eight hours it took when NS Rota only had fuel trucks to finish the job.
Another $30 million improvement project, recently approved by Spain, will lengthen NS Rota’s pier and dredge the harbor, making it a deep-water port. When complete, NS Rota will become the only American base outside the continental U.S. with a deep-water port capable of supporting Navy aircraft carriers and a runway big enough to handle the Air Force C-5s.
If that isn’t enough to solidify NS Rota’s operational future, then just look at a map to understand its strategic importance: It is the closest U.S. base to North Africa, with easy access to both the Mediterranean and the Atlantic. Its current mission supports the Navy’s Sixth Fleet and the Air Force’s Air Mobility Command, but NS Rota’s prime real estate likely will attract even bigger operations as the new Africa Command takes prominence in the region.
It Doesn’t Get Any Better Than This
Living at NS Rota offers a whole new perspective on European culture. Because the base is shared with Spain (the U.S. leases parts of the base; it’s actually owned by the Spanish government), opportunities abound for interaction and cultural exchanges. Spain’s only aircraft carrier at present, the Principe de Espana (Prince of Spain), is home-ported at NS Rota, bringing with it a number of support units all housed here. Some 500 Spanish enlisted personnel, plus 50 Spanish officers and their families, share the same housing areas as the Americans.
Although most Spanish military children attend school off base, they share playgrounds and neighborhood facilities with American children. Spanish and American families frequently socialize together at block parties, backyard barbecues and base events. It’s not unusual to hear Spanish and English conversations at the same time in the parking lot, around the street corner or at the dinner table.
A popular meeting place is NS Rota’s private beach. A security fence separates this gorgeous stretch of sand from the town’s public beach and prevents tourists from taking over this precious space in summer. Another novel meeting place is NS Rota’s drive-in theatre, the only one still in existence on any military base worldwide.
No U.S. officers/enlisted club exists on base, but the Spanish Club and pool are open to Americans stationed at Rota. Additionally, the Fleet and Family Services Center offers everything from newcomers’ orientation (including field trips to local Spanish markets and restaurants) to language classes. One of the Center’s hottest offerings is a culinary class where students learn to cook with traditional Spanish spices and techniques. The Center’s intercultural programs have been so popular with adults that the staff developed a special version of the program for kids and teens last year. Kids especially enjoy the field trip to a local castilla (castle).
For more adventure, Seville is only an hour-and-a-half away; Cordoba about three hours; Granada, four hours. Practically all Spain’s famous cities are within driving distance from NS Rota. But don’t stop there; more far-flung adventures are easily accessible. Gibraltar, the tiny British enclave on the southern tip of Europe, is only a two-hour drive. It’s worth the trip just to see the monkeys roaming free at the Rock of Gibraltar. Day trips via ferry to Morocco or other points along North Africa’s coast also are within range.
There’s so much to see and do in this part of Spain that one assignment to NS Rota might not be enough!
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Attorney and military spouse Sarah J. Schmidt lives in Germany. She visited NS Rota during a sunny week in October after the tourists departed. She enjoyed it so much she would go again in a heartbeat, even at the height of tourist season!
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Naval Station Rota At A Glance
Cost of Living: Very affordable. Considering the unfavorable fluctuations of the dollar against the euro recently, Spain is still one of the most affordable places to live or visit in Europe.
Housing: The two main areas are Las Palmeras (450 units) and Las Flores (300 units). They’re recently renovated, some even with waterfront views, and all are within an easy walk of lovely shaded parks and playgrounds. Larger units often are wait-listed, especially in summer during PCS season.
Pet Prohibitions: Spanish law requires owners of “dangerous dogs” (including pit bulls, rottweilers, dobermans, German shepherds, Staffordshire terriers, huskies and others) to obtain licenses, which can prove time-consuming and frustrating. The Navy JAG strongly urges newcomers not to bring these dogs to Spain.
Employment: The Status of Forces Agreement (SOFA) between Spain and the U.S. dictates a ratio of seven Spanish employees for every three U.S. employees at NS Rota. Therefore, spouse/dependent employment is extremely limited. Volunteer opportunities abound, with more than 100 positions in the Red Cross-maintained database at any time.
Education: Most U.S. children attend DoDEA schools on base, although they may choose a Spanish school off base. The elementary school is almost new. A multi-purpose cafeteria/gym is under construction, with scheduled completion in late 2008 or early 2009. The high school looks dated, although class sizes are small (the 2008 senior class totals only 32 students). A new high school is in the works for 2010-2011.
Higher Education: At least four institutions offer onsite classes, enabling students to complete an associates, bachelors or masters degree while stationed here.
Visiting: Space-A travelers beware: A strict international agreement with Spain prohibits visitors at NS Rota from shopping at any NEX or DeCA facilities on base – even with proper military ID – unless on official TDY orders. You may stay at the newly renovated BOQ (opened Dec. 2007), eat at the dining hall (best food on base) or have fun at the bowling center, but you cannot shop at the Commissary or Exchange. Only military personnel and their dependents currently stationed at NS Rota may access NEX and DeCA facilities.
Must Eat: Paella! Don’t miss this traditional dish, usually made with fresh seafood – it’s everywhere, and it’s delicious. This region also is famous for many varieties of “jamon” (cured ham) and olives.
Must See: Flamenco dancing is featured nightly at bars throughout region. Ask a local for a recommendation. Best time: spring, during the “Ferias” (festivals).
Must Do: Take the ferry to Cadiz, one of the oldest cities in Europe, where Columbus set sail for America. Taste sherry in nearby Jerez de la Frontera, the world-renowned capital of sherry production. Drive a short two hours to Spain’s oldest bull ring at Rhonda, another pueblo blanco.
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